Over time I found, too, that the more you look at, handle and learn about genuine antiques, the easier it is to distinguish old things from new ones.

What to look for in General Terms

When determining the age of an object, look for:

* Materials or techniques not often used in modern production such as square nails or hand stitching;

* Hand applied ornamentation that would likely be machine applied today;

* Styling indicative of a certain time period such as the Art Deco, the Arts & Crafts movement or Mid-Century Modern design.

Additionally, antiques and older collectibles are not going to be absolutely new looking in most cases. This is why people pay so much more for items in “”mint” condition, because they don’t crop up as often as pieces with telltale signs of aging and wear.

Remember that Quality Counts

It’s a sad but true fact that many items produced years ago possess a distinctively high level of quality when compared to their new counterparts.

For instance, decorative accents are more likely stenciled now than hand painted. Mechanized assembly has replaced hand craftsmanship for the most part. And less expensive materials are used now to keep costs down and profitability up, especially when we’re talking imports.

Recognizing quality not only serves to help in determining the age of an antique or collectible piece, however. Developing an eye for quality serves the antiquer well when it comes to picking up bargain pieces that are worth far more than their asking price, also known as “sleepers” in the antiques biz. ”

The Basics
Wood is hard or soft. When I say hard, I mean that the wood is dense, whereas, a soft wood is supple. A good trick to tell the difference between hard and soft wood is that if you press your fingernail into a soft wood such as pine, it leaves an indentation. But, this does not happen with a hard wood such as oak.

Wood is coarse-grain or close-grain. In coarse-grain wood, the age rings in the wood are far a part, giving it an uneven appearance. In close-grain woods, the age rings in the wood are very close together, giving it a smooth, delicate appearance.

Sometimes, wood is stained. Lighter woods such as oak, elm and maple can be stained to resemble a darker mahogany or rosewood.

Some woods (mahogany, rosewood, burl walnut) are perceived to be more valuable than other woods (elm, maple, spruce). The reason for this is availability. Woods that need to be imported are more expensive than home-grown woods. Woods that are abundant are not as expensive as woods that are scarce.

Oak
Oak is a coarse-grain hard wood found in Europe and North America. Starting in 17th century Europe, oak was used to make furniture found throughout the home. There are several varieties including red oak and white oak. Young oak is pale in color. But, over time and with polishing, oak darkens into a rich brown color.

Mahogany
Mahogany is a close-grain hard wood native to northern and central South America and the West Indies. Mahogany was a popular choice in England during the mid-18th century for fine furniture making. It is a dark red color sometimes, however, it is dark brown. Red mahogany is found in the West Indies and brown mahogany is native to South America. Mahogany furniture continues to be desirable today.

Rosewood
Rosewood is a close-grain hard wood indigenous to India, South America and the West Indies. Rosewood is named for the rose scent that releases when it is cut. Occasionally, I find that people confuse rosewood and mahogany. Both woods can be red in color. However, when you look closely at rosewood, you’ll see fine black (and sometimes white) rings that are not present in mahogany. Another trick to tell if an item is rosewood is to pick it up. Rosewood is a very heavy wood, heavier than mahogany. In the 17th century China, rosewood was a popular choice for fine furniture makers. As well, in 19th century Europe, it was used to construct better-quality furniture for fine homes.

Walnut
Walnut is close-grain hard wood found in Europe and North America. The color varies from light to a very rich golden brown color and it is not uncommon to find walnut stained to look like mahogany. Sometimes, disease leads to the unexpected. Burl walnut, the most prized form of walnut, results from a disease that attacks the tree causing a beautiful scrolled, close-grain. These days you see the look of burl walnut replicated in the plastic interiors of some higher end cars.

Pine
Pine is a pale, knotted soft wood with a wide, straight grain. It grows in Europe and North America. Pine was often used in furniture intended to be painted. Everyday furniture – kitchen tables and chairs -were often made from pine.

Maple & Elm
Maple and elm are coarse-grain hard woods found in North America and Europe. They were frequently used in utilitarian furniture. Often a veneer of a finer wood was applied to these woods.

Veneers
Veneering is a technique where a very thin sheet of a more expensive wood is glued to a less expensive wood. Using less expensive woods such as elm and maple and adding a more expensive mahogany or walnut veneer allowed furniture makers to provide furniture that was affordable for a larger clientele. You may hear an antique dealer say; “This table is walnut on maple.” The dealer means that the item has a walnut veneer and underneath the actual item is maple. A walnut on maple table is less valuable than a solid walnut table.

How do you tell if your furniture is veneered? Look at the edges of the piece. If you see what appears to be a seam, it is veneered. On the other hand, if the edges of the piece are seamless, it is solid.

Early veneers from the 17th century were hand-cut, so they could be uneven. But, in the 19th century veneers started to be cut by machine. This allowed the veneers to be cut very thin and even. Depending on the way the wood is cut, veneering produces different effects. Butterfly veneering occurs when two opposing end grain veneers are diagonally cut from a branch. They are applied to mirror each other.

Marquetry/Parquetry/Inlay
Marquetry is a technique where various kinds of wood are applied to a surface to produce a picture. Flowers and birds were often the subjects. Exotic woods such as ebony, satinwood and tulipwood were frequently employed.

The difference between marquetry and parquetry is the subject matter. Parquetry is a veneer that uses geometric patterns. Nowadays, you see it in parquet hardwood floors and ornate chess and backgammon boards.

Inlay is a decorative treatment where materials other than wood are cut into a design. Inlays were often made of bone, ivory, mother of pearl, brass, tortoise shell. Marquetry, parquetry and inlay first appeared during the Italian Renaissance.

Gilding
Gilding is a technique wherein gold leaf is applied with gesso (a plaster-like substance) to wood. It is highly decorative and was popular during the Italian Renaissance and the Louis period in France.

The origin of these coins in United States of America can not be traced to a very particular date. The origin is still debatable. There is very less evidence in this regard about the origin of the military coins. However there are main claims from several institutions as the introducers of the coins. But the most commonly held opinion about the introduction of the coins is credited to United States Air Force. It is told that the coins were presented by one lieutenant to his colleagues as mementos and since then the tradition of military-coins started.

By the President of the United States there has been declaration of several racks of military coins at many instances. These are also called challenge coin because this challenge coins run as a tradition and is a very usual way to assure that the members of any specific squadron is carrying the coin. This is not only pride but also an identity of becoming a member of a particular group of soldier in the military. The norms of such a challenge do not have a formal method or norm for a unit or battalion. The norm may be different between organizations.

However the challenge only applies to those members when they have been appraised by a coin formally by the unit. A possibility of some conflict may arise when members belonging to different organizations initiate challenges among themselves but it is not recommended formally. The challenge can be made any time when the challenger draws the military coin and slap his or her coin on top of the table of a bar. However if it is very noisy then the coin can be rapped on a surface and that initiates a challenge. At times the coin may drop accidentally out of the hand but accidental dropping is also considered as a challenge because they feel it has been dropped deliberately to all present members.

The interesting thing is everyone being challenged has to produce their organization’s coin instantaneously. If anyone failing as such will have to buy a round of drinks to all the members present who have their challenge coin as well for challenger. But if everyone present shows the coin then the challenger has to buy drinks for all.

Airmail: The word airmail appears over the stamps and they are generally in most cases bigger than the standard postage stamp used for the envelopes. Much like the regular stamp each one does give a name of the region and the price paid.

Coil: These include stamps that anyone can get via the vending machine. A person rip off the postage stamp from the coil when you wish to use one.

Commemorative Stamps: they’re postage stamps issued by nations so they can remember a unique celebration which takes place in the country. There are sometimes a number of these throughout any one year, but they are just for sale in minimal quantities.

Definitive Stamps: This is the major stamps which are used by the nation so are produced and also reprinted in bulk. They are available in most different denominations that might be necessary to make up the postage required to send out mail.

Express Mail: These are generally stamps useful for postal mail that should get there in a very small amount of time. Presently there are usually envelopes for this kind of purpose containing the postage necessary.

Military; The Military of nations around the world have its own accepted postage stamp to put on the mail that many people send.

Official: Mainly government departments and bureaus may use these stamps that will be from the actual governing bodies of all countries around the world.

The family of the avid collector will not appreciate the effort that has been put into creating the collection of stamps as the collector did. Thus, the collection may not bring the potential profit it should, so the collector should take responsibility in their collection by either training a child in this unique hobby or by gaining the best possible profits from their collection. However, there are advantages and disadvantages with each way the collector decides to sell their collection.

Several collectors may decide to sell their stamps directly to stamp dealers, but the disadvantages to selling to a dealer is that dealers will usually give the lowest price for stamps, especially if the collector is attempting to sell a huge quantity. The dealer may also only give the collector a wholesale value, which means that someone else is going to receive the profits from your collection when they mark them up. The advantages of selling your collection to a dealer is that it is a very quick process and usually it is done in cash. If the collector has a bulky collection that is not organized, then this may just be the best choice.

Some collectors prefer to sell directly to other collectors through shows or stamp clubs and it is not unusual for any collector to sell their collection to friend, who collect stamps. Auction houses is another avenue that any collector could choose when wanting to sell their entire collection, although their collection will be broken down to sold individually at other private sales.

When selling a collection the market value of the collection must first be determined. However, many collectors do not understand or have the knowledge needed in determining the true condition of stamp, so the collection may need to be taken to a professional to be evaluated. Relaying on the individual or dealer to determine the purchase price means that they must be trust worthy, so there is some danger in doing this, especially if they are the one who are buying them.

A collection of stamps can also be sold by private treaty, which means selling your collection to another collector through the use of a private agent. The agent acts as a middle man, who is a stamp dealer or a private auctioning house where the sales will include either one stamp or your entire collection. Ultimately, the private agent or middle man will receive a fee or percentage for their service, which will decrease your profits.

You need to thoroughly evaluate the pieces that interest you. Be comfortable with their condition before you bid. Bidding goes fast and you are in or you are out – there is not much time to think about it when a piece that you want is actually sitting on the auction block. When doing your evaluation, use these tips to make sure you don’t overlook anything important:

1. If an antique piece of furniture needs to be refinished, you should only have it refinished if you intend to keep it yourself. Once an antique has been refinished, its value is diminished.

2. Don’t worry about small wood imperfections such as tiny dents in the wood or other natural looking flaws. If you want a perfect unmarred surface then don’t buy real wood.

3. Tables, large or small, can have many different leg styles. However, there are only two types of legs – those that are part of the frame and those that screw on and off. The quality of tables with screw on legs is inferior to those with legs that are permanently attached.

4. Look at the sides of the drawers. How are they attached? The drawers on quality pieces will always be dovetailed. Pieces of lesser quality are usually stapled. Also consider that if the drawers are in fact stapled, then the piece is probably not an antique or even vintage.

5. Be careful with antique beds at auction. Sometimes an auction only has the headboard and the footboard. It is possible that they do not have the bed rails. Do not buy an antique bed without the rails. Most old beds had wooden rails, not metal. It would be hard to find the proper rails to match the style and finish of an antique bed after the fact.

6. When looking at an antique bed be sure to measure the width. In the old days, they made a special size called a three-quarter bed, which is 48 inches wide. This size is in-between a twin at 39 inches and a full or double at 54 inches. Mattresses for three-quarter beds may have to be special ordered.

7. Before going to an auction to buy a piece of furniture for your home, know where you are going to place it and measure that area. When you find a piece you like at the auction, more measuring is in order. Make sure it will fit in the designated space. Once you buy a piece, you own it. There is no returning it because it is too big or too small.

8. Watch for the term grain painted. Many people see this in auction descriptions but do not understand what it means. On a number of old pieces, the grain and color of the wood was actually painted on, hence the term grain painted. There is nothing wrong with grain painted furniture; some of it is just beautiful. It is just a matter of knowing what you are buying.

9. There are two classifications of furniture – upholstered and case goods. Case goods are sideboards, bureaus, dressers, china cabinets, bookcases and the like. When looking at case goods at auction it is important for you to open all the drawers and check for sawdust like material. You should also look under the pieces if they are raised up on legs. If you find any – do not buy those pieces. You are looking at termite damage and active termite damage at that. It is more difficult to detect such damage if the termites are not active because the sawdust like material will have been wiped clean. This does not mean the auction house is being deceptive. They may have received the furniture this way without knowing it.

Different people go to different places to get estimates of what their particular treasures are worth. Does each antique or collectible have a set value? Will you be given the same price regardless of where you take it? The answer to both questions is no.

If someone is providing you with his or her professional opinion as to what an item is worth, you have to ask yourself who is this person? What is this person’s association with the antiques business?

If you take an antique to an antique mall for evaluation you will have a completely different result than if you took that same item to an auction house or an antique show. Each person at each of these three locations has a completely different outlook as to value. Most people will speak to what they know. An auctioneer will provide you with a price that he or she thinks the item will bring at auction. The same can be said for the mall and show dealers. Each has a different perspective.

The hopes of getting a realistic quote as to the value of your item gets further complicated when you incorporate all the other important factors.

Other factors include:

1. The condition of the item.
2. Where in the country is your item going to be sold?
3. Is your item presently on the “What’s Hot” list?

The most important of these factors is condition. Condition has the biggest affect on the value of any antique or collectible because there are so many variables involved – chips, cracks, scratches, missing pieces, fading, etc. Also, there are different degrees of damage assigned to each of these that also effect price, such as a small chip that can’t be seen as opposed to a large chip that is located in a really conspicuous place.

Where an item is going to be sold is extremely pertinent. There may be a call for Early American furniture in New England but you will not find
anyone in Florida who is the least bit interested. It is all about location, location, location.

Last, but not least, is whether or not your item is popular at the present time. Different antiques and collectibles fall in and out of favor all the time. You only want to cash it in during the height of its popularity. In this respect it is similar to the stock market. Buy low and sell high.

You can attempt to determine the current worth of your item yourself by using reference books or price guides. Keep in mind that the prices in most of these books represent the highest amount realized for any given item at live auction, not how much it sold for on eBay or at an antique store. Sometimes auction prices are higher than retail but sometimes they are not. Just remember that these books are giving you information as it relates to auctions only.

If you do use reference books or price guides to evaluate one or more of your items, check the publication dates of the books that you are using.

Most books get reprinted or updated with new values every few years. If you are using a book that was published five years ago then that book is giving you prices that are five years old. The item or items you are researching could be worth more or less today than what the books are telling you. This is very important to remember.

Notice that no mention has been made here concerning written appraisals. A written appraisal is something completely different from a verbal appraisal or an estimate or even an opinion from an antiques and collectibles expert. A written appraisal is an official document that is recognized by the courts. It is mainly used for insurance purposes and it provides a replacement cost of an item that is damaged, lost or stolen. Written appraisals are expensive and should only be obtained for legal reasons.

Coraline Jones herself is out there as a selection of three poseable action dolls that are sure to thrill any fan of the brilliant animated classic. Coraline has been put out in three outfits from the movie, including her pajamas, her rain coat and her casual outfit. The figures are poseable and are packed with a display base to help Coraline stand upright in any poses you arrange her in! These great examples of Coraline movie merchandise come made with an array of different facial expressions to pick between, so you are able to choose your desired costume and facial expression as you begin your Coraline movie merchandise collection.

Want more Coraline movie merchandise? A choice of three Coraline movie figure triple packs have also been made available. Each pack
includes three small pieces based on characters from the animated adaptation of Neil Gaiman’s original Coraline book. Created by Reel Toys and NECA, these brilliant mini figures are nicely painted and detailed, perfectly capturing the nature of the characters they are taken from.

Each of the three triple packs of miniature Coraline movie merchandise contain a different figure of Coraline Jones herself with the sarcastic cat. Other faces from the Coraline movie adaptation consist of the Other Mother, Mr Bobinsky, the trio of Ghost Children and Wybie. While these figures are not articulated, they are gorgeous items for fans of Coraline movie merchandise.

Plus, there are also some great Coraline movie posters available for those of you who would like to decorate your walls with surreal visuals from the Coraline feature film itself. Two posters that are out there are the teaser image and the ‘Ghosts’ poster. The posters perfectly recreate the feel and atmosphere of the Coraline film and its stunning animation. A superb addition to the range of Coraline movie merchandise.

For more printed Coraline movie merchandise, there is also a movie version of the original Coraline book by Neil Gaiman, featuring art from the movie adaptation. Another superb Coraline movie book is the Coraline Movie Visual Companion, which chronicles the mammoth task of putting the film together. Other items of Coraline movie merchandise include the Coraline video game and the movie soundtrack CD to the Coraline film as well! There really is something for every fan of this great animated fantasy film. Love Coraline? Seek out the Coraline movie merchandise for yourself!